I first came across Morey's oil products whilst in the boat industry and had seen a demonstration of the oil stabilizer but had never used it my self, not trusting anything that clamed to be that good.
Many years later I came across it again when I was getting an exhaust made for my chop. I was offered some diesel fuel condoner to try, which I did in my old non turbo Nissan. I was incredibly impressed at the increase in performance and mpg, and when I took it for a MOT the tester said it was the cleanest exhaust gasses he had tested in some time.
I next tried the oil stabilizer in my chop, a GS550 of 1980 vintage. This had always had a habit of breaking down the oil quickly if ridden hard with a very noticeable smell of hot oil when I stopped. This disappeared and so did the annoying end float knock at idling speeds which is common with the 550's.
However being a skeptical bugger and having herd of oil ways being blocked by additives, I stripped the top end down after 1000 miles to check and was pleasantly surprised to see no sign of blockages. Also everything had a nice coating of sticky oil over it. It has extended the life of the oil by several thousand miles and checking the oil consistency regularly I have extended my change period to 6000 miles twice the recommended amount.
In all I’m very impressed with it and use it in all my bikes and car.
I first came across this 2 part epoxy putty stuff at a model rail show, and being flush at the time I bought some as it looked useful.
It must have stayed in my glue draw for a couple of years not being used, having other suitable epoxy’s with much quicker setting time than the quoted 2 to 3 hours of Milliput.
That was however until I was trying to glue a rear view mirror back to a car windscreen. I had tried all my usual epoxy’s to no avail, even the best failing after a short time.
But it clamed to stick to glass so I rigged a brace to hold it in position and stuck the mirror on.
Mixing it is very straight forward. Just slice off equal amounts of the putty and knead together in your hand till it’s a uniform streak free color. It helps if you warm it first for a bit in your hand before you start mixing it.
I was extremely chuffed to find it had stuck firmly and continued to be so until the car was scraped.
I have since use it to rebuild a bit of a casing in a gear box I was repairing. One of the bearing housings was chipped away where I suspect someone had previously tried to part the casings using a leaver. I have also used it when making a point crossover for an n gauge layout. It is remarkably easy to work once set even in small detail, but firm enough to be useful.
I now carry about a ˝ inch with me most of the time, and carry a full pack with me when traveling along with the usual gaffer tape and WD40.
I had wanted to get the paintwork redone on the Griphin for some time, the lacquering having been fuked up by a so called professional in Windermere who had disappeared once the lacquer started cracking from solvent entrapment.
I hadn’t been wanting to do it my self as I have in the past as I really didn’t want to be mess about with solvent laden atmospheres, also the color shift color I fancied using seemed to always be cyanide based which really didn’t appeal to me. Then I heard about Auto Air color water based paint, designed for the automotive industry in America and they had the color shift I wanted in their range. I still wasn’t entirely convinced until at Storming the Castle rally the local importers (The Custom Paint Shop) had a range of helmets sprayed up with their paint. The very effect I wanted was there and looked beautiful.
Once I’d got my money together, I went up to The Custom Paint Shop at Bowes on the A66. Derek and the lads there were very helpful and made sure I came away with what I needed, which turned out to be a lot less than I expected from the figure given in the literature that I had been sent on them.
Using them is straight forward especially if you’ve done some spraying before. First prepare the surface as normal using cellulose primer (from shake cans) which can be done out side on a drafty day to good effect with out breathing in to much solvent. You only need to sand to 600 grit as supposed to 1200 grit for cellulose as the paint needs a rougher surface to cling too. Then you can go inside (I did nine in the kitchen) and spray your art work on as normal using masks and such. I used a small compressor and an Axminster Power Tool Centre “SG215 Mini Touch Up Gun” which is fairly cheap compared to the proprietary brands and delivers a good result. The paint comes ready to use in a spray gun with a 0.8mm nozzle in 4 US fluid ounces (which equates to 118 ml) bottles. Cleaning the gun of coarse is a breeze as you only need water.
Once is done to your satisfaction then take it to a friendly spray shop to be lacquered in professional 2 pack, though see some of there work to be sure first (see experience in Windermere above).
One problem that I came across, was that the dots I’d put on to help positioning of the graphics using the permanent marker Iv always used when spraying cellulose that had disappeared as I sprayed come through once the lacquer was applied. Ill use B3 pencil next time I think. The result though is great and combined with the good feeling of having done it your self would defiantly recommend having a go with them.
This page added..08/10/10